There was something about the wines from Polperro that had me hooked from the start. Complex, engaging aromas, textural palates with multi-layered flavours built, it seemed, almost from the vineyard up. While not unique, they are distinctive and are some of the most intriguing wines I have tried in the past 12 months.
Sam Coverdale’s Polperro is in the Mornington Peninsula, where he sources fruit from some of the best single vineyards in the region, including his own, adopting a minimal interventionist approach to achieve the vineyard and regionally reflective styles he is seeking.
He sees no pleasure in tasting commoditised wines that all taste the same and so is pursuing an individual style that is especially evident with his chardonnays and pinots.
Coverdale also has a second label, Even Keel, which provides excellent value for money, and is sourced from Mornington and other areas. The range includes different varieties from different regions including as far away as Canberra.
But the wines that really caught my attention were the Polperro pinots and chardonnays, some of which are single-vineyard wines and others a blend from different parts of the Mornington.
There are striking features in these wines. The pinots are bright and brilliant with finely balanced mouth feel, while the chardonnays are lavish and textural with rich flavours that roll across the palate
Such a beautifully balanced and seamlessly integrated pinot noir. There is a finer mouthfeel than the Mill Hill yet there is power, real power here. Has a slightly sweet and sour character with a cherry and faint raspberry nuance. Bright and high fidelity with just a little tannin grip to tidy up the finish. excellent.
96/100. Ray Jordan – The West Australian
